Friday, February 06, 2009

Inauguration - crowds and cold and ceremony

Nearly three weeks later, I figure I better put up my recollections of inauguration day.

Our alarms were set at 6:15 a.m., with the aim of leaving the house by 7. Our No. 1 priority was to make it to the Mall for Obama's swearing-in and speech. Since anything within reasonable eyeshot of the Capitol platform was reserved for ticket holders, we were hoping just to be a part of the crowd, hopefully with a view of one of the 20+ JumboTrons set up on the Mall.

Information had been disseminated in the days before Jan. 20 on possible avenues to reach the Mall area, but all of it came with a caveat: No one knows exactly how things will work out. With crowds of up to 2 million expected to descend on downtown, any hiccup would turn into a jam - and possible hiccups were everywhere.

We had a Plan A, B and C - which may have been our first mistake.

Plan A was to try the Metro. There was some worry the cars would be so packed we wouldn't actual be able to get on. I felt it was worth heading into the station near our house in the morning and try to get on a train. As it turned out, we were worrying about the wrong thing.
Plan B was to try and take a bus down Georgia Ave. toward downtown and see how far we could get, then walk the rest of the way to the Mall. We preferred the Metro to the bus primarily because the parade route was set up north of the Mall, and the parade route was generally closed to all pedestrian traffic (security checkpoints were set up for people wanting to watch the parade). Instead, we were hoping a Metro trip to L'Enfant Station, south of the Mall, would leave us a more open route to the Mall, avoiding security checkpoints. Again, as it turned out, our plan didn't quite take all the factors into account.
Plan C was to ride bikes downtown. This was generally agreed to be by far the best way to get there, except for the fact it was below freezing that day. It would not, however, be nearly as fun to get back. It's downhill all the way from our house to the Mall, which means uphill all the way back. We also had a possible spot to watch the parade after the speech, and bikes would impede that process.

The speech was open for the public to watch from the three miles of the Mall (mostly the mile and a half between the Capitol and the Washington monument. The parade would happen afterward - scheduled for 2:30 p.m. (swearing-in at noon) but the parade was likely to run late.

My sister came down to stay with us from Baltimore, and a friend of hers came up from Atlanta. The friend knew people with connections to a downtown law firm, and we ended up with invites to watch the parade from the firm's offices on Pennsylvania Avenue, just past the White House at the end of the parade. We weren't sure if the crowds would actually allow us to make both, but we were going to try.

Just before 7 we headed to the Metro station, and easily got on a near-empty train. We felt this was a good sign - even though the train filled up as we approached downtown, it wasn't any more full than a rush hour train. As we passed the Chinatown station, we looked outside at the packed platforms and were momentarily glad we'd decided to head to L'Enfant. Until we got off at L'Enfant and realized we couldn't move from the platform to, well, anywhere.

After making a quick decision that getting back on a train was unlikely to help, we started to make our way into the packed throngs attempting to leave the station. It didn't take long to get within eyesight of the fare gates, but we couldn't move toward them. After a short wait, a Metro employee spoke over the PA system, letting us know the escalators were overloaded and they could only let a certain number of people out at a time. This was the first and last time of the day when someone actually gave helpful information to a crowd.

An hour later, as we finally made our way out of the station, we were caught up in a mass of people making their way a few blocks away toward 12th Street to take them to a Mall - it looked like what would normally be an on-ramp was completely clogged with people. We hopped out of the crowd and up a staircase onto an almost deserted L'Enfant Plaza (filled with what must have been frustrated vendors who had to watch everyone walk underneath them, as most tourists had no idea this route was an option). We made it to Independence on the backside of the Smithsonian Castle, and had to make a decision - walk East, toward the Capitol and try to set up in front of the Hirshhorn, but risk finding an already-packed Mall with no place for us, or rejoin the herd of people moving West, further away and possibly nowhere near a Jumbotron screen. Originally, we'd hoped to set up on the Washington Monument grounds, thinking it would be easier to gain a spot there, so we headed East. When we got to the first possible entry point, at 12th Street, we found our way blocked by barricades and police, so we kept moving east. Problem was, this funneled us into a long stretch with no possible outlet, caught in between the two USDA buildings. As we closed in on 14th Street, the crowd simply stopped moving. We were about 20 yards away from 14th, an opening to the Mall, for about 45 minutes. No one in the crowd had any idea why they weren't moving, but clearly no one was. We lucked out - next to us was a guy who pulled out a portable radio. We quickly heard the Mall was completely closed to pedestrians between the Capitol and the Washington Monument, which explained why no one was moving.

No one, that is, except for a small number of people who had decided to simply ignore the barricades and jump over - the other side was relatively deserted, as there was about half a block between us and the real crowds. After learning the Mall was closed, we decided to try and make our way toward the Lincoln Memorial, fighting our way across Independence away from the Mall, where the people thinned out slightly. But only a few yards along, it seemed clear the mass of people would make it difficult to go anywhere - east or west - so we joined the barricade jumpers, hopping onto an empty stretch of ground behind the line of port-a-johns that lined the Mall (seriously - they were another barricade for almost the entire mile-plus length). We squeezed through a gap in the toilet sentries and found ourselves in the midst of an even denser mass of people. We were still on the South side of the Mall, south of Jefferson and in between 15th and 14th - about 500 feet southeast of the Washington Monument.

I caught a glimpse of one of the last Jumbotrons and wormed through the crowd until I couldn't go any farther. I could just see the picture through gaps in the heads in front of me - I realized the three girls with me had only a view of the people directly in front of them. It didn't take long for my sister and her friend to feel a little claustrophobic and decide to move back for a little space. Kirsten and I stayed where we were, even though we were packed in close enough that for a few brief moments it was literally hard to breathe, and for the full hour and a half or so we waited in these spots until Obama's speech I had a hard time moving my hands above my waist (I was carrying a bag with food and water that ended up only cutting off circulation to my hand until well after the speech).

Despite all this, I still had a view of the screen for the ceremony and speech (not as good a view as the few people who decided to climb a tree, but those spots were taken by the time we got there - it can't have been comfortable for those who stayed in the branches for a few hours to watch). We also had a great view of the crowds around the Washington Monument - clearly we wouldn't have gotten a spot there.

The ceremony and speech, I'm sure, were the same as they would have been to anyone watching on TV, although our sound had no commentators - just the open microphones as they showed pictures of dignitaries walking through the Capitol, with the occasionally announcement as someone official took their seat for the ceremony.


Immediately after the ceremony, the crowd had nearly as much trouble dispersing as it did gathering. The screens all carried announcements that the northern exits from the Mall were closed, and pointed people to 14th Street for a Southern exit, but 14th street was still barricaded, and people were being channeled into small passageways along the sidewalks, which made for a frustrated group of people who were ready to no longer be a group.

We decided to head against the traffic and go up to the Washington Monument for a better vantage point. The crowd had thinned by the time we started to make our way to the law office for the parade. Ever since getting out of the train station, I hadn't had cell service - I saw reports later saying officials had actually jammed the signals for security.

Leaving the Mall, we ended up having no problems. We found our way north onto 18th Street, which I had heard was jammed, but it was steadily moving. Cell service was restored when we were about a block from the law offices, and I got a text from my sister letting me know she had just gotten there.

We arrived at the law offices around 2 p.m. and were ushered into the 10th floor conference room (clients were being hosted on the 2nd floor - the 10th floor seemed to be mostly family).

There we finally had a chance to thaw out (it was in the high 20s that day, with a small wind - although we didn't notice the wind until we were out of the crowd - being packed in does have small advantages), grab some food and settle in. We watched inauguration coverage on a TV on the back wall, including images of the Obamas walking in the parade, until they made the final turn onto Pennsylvania Avenue and we could just watch them walking along. From our vantage point, we saw them reach the end of hte route, and then we later watched them walk from the White House into the presidential review stand. We hung around for a while before making our way back home - this time the Metro presented no problems.

Wednesday, January 21, 2009

After the inauguration madness, I'm exhausted.

I'll try to put up a post detailing our Inauguration Day experience in the next day or two. In the meantime, you can see a few photos here.

Wednesday, January 14, 2009

the inauguration is coming!

The town is about to go into full-fledged crazy mode for the weekend's inaugural festivities. I've already had the pleasure of sitting in unusual traffic jams thanks to new road closures to accommodate the new First Family, and starting Saturday or Sunday it appears cars will not be welcome at all in this city.

The news has been a steady flood of warnings - traffic will be at a standstill, Metro won't be able to move the crowds, no one will actually be able to get anywhere near the inauguration events - except hidden in the torrent are a few drops of conflicting optimism - the crowd estimates have been revised downward by a factor of at least two (from a wildly inflated initial number), the number of buses applying for parking downtown was underwhelming, there are still hotel rooms available in D.C.

It seems like this will be a massively crowded event and traffic is going to be impossible (don't even try to get in from Virginia - you can't) but outside of the near-freezing temperatures I'm looking forward to making my way into the heart of the craziness Tuesday (not to mention the extra-long weekend).

Monday, January 05, 2009

White Christmas

A traditional holiday with everyone home has become a rarity for my family. This year we not only managed to get everyone in the same place for the holiday, we also had an even-rarer White Christmas (even on the often-frigid plains of Montana, snow on the ground has been scarce for recent Dec. 25ths).

The weather contributed a nice backdrop for the vacation, although it also nearly derailed my family's plans of Christmas proximity. We came by planes, trains and automobiles, and in every case were delayed as we tried to make our way across country toward central Montana.

My sister was the first to attempt the journey, driving cross-country with a friend, and a blizzard stranded them for an extra day in South Dakota. Our flight was delayed long enough we were 15 minutes late for a connecting flight in Denver. The airline's first response was to tell us every seat into the state of Montana was full for the next three days, getting us home on Christmas, but with an unwanted stay in Colorado. Thankfully, enough other people were delayed a standby spot was easy to come by a few hours later - someone else got the problem of a very extended Denver layover.

My brothers both decided rail was the way to go; one came from the West and one from the East. The Eastern route was the more troubled of the two - the train didn't even leave Chicago until about 24 hours after the scheduled departure, leading my brother and his wife to explore the confines of Union Station for a day. The weather in Oregon nearly shut down all transportation there, but Amtrak delivered my Western brother only 8 hours late or so.

The holiday itself provided much opportunity to catch up - the entire sibling set hadn't been together for more than three years, and three out of four partners came along as well. The weather stayed cold, but not horribly so - the snow stayed on the ground and the wind (mostly) stayed away, providing a crisp setting for those who chose to wander out in the elements, and a perfect scene through the windows for those who preferred to stay within range of the wood stove. A day on the ski slopes gave us some of the best conditions I've experienced in years, and there was even a mini-reunion for my high school class (we had six of 13 classmates in one place, which qualifies in my eyes).

The main problem, as always, was the return. I could have used a few more days out West.

Tuesday, November 18, 2008

weekend

We missed out on the really nice fall colors when the weather was still nice, but this weekend Kirsten and I did manage to sneak in a short walk in the woods of Rock Creek Park before the truly freezing temperatures arrived (there were actual snowflakes in the air today, although none of them survived the trip to the ground). Rock Creek remains one of my favorite things about the city - there's something soul-cleansing about being able to travel less than a mile from our house and end up on a trail in the forest without visible signs of being in the heart of the city. It's a shame we haven't taken advantage of the park's picnic areas, which include fire pits - a barbecue must be on the agenda for the spring.

We had grand ideas about hitting up some culture this weekend (it's been a while since I just spent a day wandering the museums) but instead we defaulted to crass commercialism when we heard National Geographic was holding a warehouse sale. Basically, cheap books piled up by the pallet load. Not a good idea to put me in the middle of a book sale for science, history and nature books but I managed to have enough self-discipline to keep the tab relatively low (at $10 a book - the big ones - not too bad).

It was a National Geographic-themed day, as our next stop was the NG museum downtown. Te Papa (New Zealand's national museum, and a frequent stop for my Wellington wanderings, as well as the venue for one of my many temp jobs down there) was holding a traveling exhibition on whales in conjunction with NatGeo. In keeping with NZ official policy, all the exhibits had Maori translations - a nice way to send my mind traveling back to the islands.

We also had big plans to hit up a few galleries participating in FotoWeek, although those were sacrificed to time issues. Maybe before the week is out.

Friday, November 07, 2008

dancing in the streets

Kirsten and I watched the election results at a friend's house, with about 20 people, some of whom had already left by the time the West Coast polls closed and the Networks called the race for Obama. We stayed to watch John McCain's speech, which meant we missed the last Metro train home. Walking among horns blaring, we caught a bus where the mood of the driver and passengers can only be described as jubilant. There were several impromptu street parties in D.C. that night, including a large gathering of people outside the White House. We missed those, but no matter where you were around midnight after the election you couldn't miss the horns honking in celebration and the people on the sidewalks chanting Obama.

The result excited me as well, although not without trepidation. I don't think there's much the government can do to turn around the economy, although I imagine there are many things they could do that would make it worse. I don't yet believe that a huge majority in Congress will actually translate into major policy changes for the good of the country instead of individual grabs for more power and money. And I don't know if Obama can hang on to the excitement that clearly existed for his candidacy.

But for me the biggest promise of Obama was that he appears to want to know. He wants to examine all facets of a policy decision, to see if it could really work. He wants to hear dissenting views. He wants to get the details right.

This could be an illusion. The shine could tarnish, and we could find out once again the politicians tend to be more interested in their own electoral interests than the country's. We could find out the challenges of the moment, which will almost certainly call for sacrifice and tough decisions politically, are too much.

But I hope the feeling that had people celebrating in the streets with total strangers Tuesday night and Wednesday morning carries over, at least a little bit, for the next few years.

Wednesday, October 29, 2008

Like everyone else that actually lives in D.C., the only time I ever actually go and visit the iconic landmarks of the city is when someone comes to visit. There are plenty of spots in this city I have on my to-see list, but that list rarely gets anything crossed off of it when there isn't someone else providing the motivation to not simply stay on the couch.

But I enjoy it, every time, going out among the unwashed tourist hordes. And thankfully, my uncle gave me the needed impetus this month when he arrived in Washington for a week-long visit.

Among the items on his itinerary was a tour of the Capitol, arranged by the office of his Senator in Montana (who wasn't in town for our visit, but a few days before his trip to D.C. my uncle saw the Senator in the hardware store and briefly visited with him - the Senator is an old softball friend. This seems to me to be a pretty good illustration of something about Montana, but I'm not sure exactly what). In my previous year and a half of D.C. residence, I had not seen the inside of the Capitol building - the last (and only) time I'd been inside was in 1995, when we got a tour as part of a high school trip. Needless to say, I did not have a perfect memory of all the interior details - or any of them. It had just seemed like too much of a hassle to actually wait in line for a Capitol tour or to try to set a date for a staffer-led tour. But having someone else set up a tour was perfect.

The Capitol is the most imposing building in D.C., and is even more so when you consider the fact it was built essentially in what was the middle of a cow pasture and some forestland. And there are areas inside the Capitol that have the same aura - mainly in the Rotunda under the dome, lined with paintings of battle. But the most striking thing about the Captitol's interior is how cramped, dim and unglamorous much of it is. Many of the "corridors of power" are narrow, dark passageways - often with a statue thrown up, seemingly anywhere it would fit. Offices of Congressmen are tucked into corners where you'd expect nothing more than a broom closet, or along a basement hallway with exposed pipes on the ceiling. Some of the older areas, where the earliest meetings of Congress took place, are dark enough, surrounded by interior walls of thick stone, I can't imagine how things worked before the advent of electric lighting. Even the House chamber, which looks like such a large auditorium in tracking shots during the State of the Union, is surprisingly small and utilitarian.

In all, I like this better than I would if it was all high ceilings, white marble and trappings of glory. There's some of that, to be sure, but the more austere bits seem as though they are there to insert some a much-needed reminder of the responsibility of the place, of the work to be done, of the fact all the power of the place comes from being representatives of the people.

Or maybe such things are lost on those that actually work there, where the power of the positions is easier to drink in, and certainly more heady. In this, more cynical view, I think the symbolism is no less appropriate - the grand image of government, up close loses much of the glamour.